Verdict: Gigi’s has the great advantage of knowing exactly what it is. This is a long-established family Italian restaurant serving pizza, pasta, fish and familiar southern-Italian comfort rather than chasing fashionable small plates.

Recent reviews are broadly positive about freshly cooked food, friendly service and the fact that the restaurant can be busy without grinding to a halt. The overall public ratings sit in the low-to-mid 4s, which feels about right for a place whose strength is consistency and atmosphere rather than culinary theatre.

It works particularly well for families or mixed groups because there is little need to negotiate the menu. Pizza, pasta and fish give almost everybody an obvious route in.

Best for: an unfussy dinner, families, groups and the night when you want Italian food without a lecture.

Worth knowing: the cooking is traditional rather than innovative. If you arrive expecting modern regional Italian minimalism, you have misunderstood the assignment.

GW&B rating: 4/5. Dependable, busy and genuinely part of the town.