Verdict: The Olive Tree wins by being unusually good at several different jobs. It can handle a casual lunch, a family meal, a vegetarian table or a Sunday roast without feeling as though one of those audiences is an afterthought.
Recent reviews repeatedly praise scallops, roast dinners, pork belly, chicken dishes and the balance between portion size and price. The overall rating sits around 4.7/5 with hundreds of reviews, which is strong evidence that this is more than a lucky run.
The cooking is accessible rather than experimental, but presentation and flavour seem to land above normal bistro expectations. That is probably the sweet spot for Wells.
Best for: Sunday lunch, groups with different tastes and an easy post-Cathedral meal that still feels considered.
Worth knowing: service can slow when the room fills. It is worth booking at busy times rather than assuming a small-city restaurant will always have space.
GW&B rating: 4/5. A very competent all-rounder with enough quality to feel like more than the safe option.